by Reid Bramblett
With Tips and Recommendations From the Experts at Frommer's
THIRD ED
 |
| Europe 3rd Ed For Dummies |
Reid Bramblett has lived in Europe on and off since the age of
11, and is the author of ten travel guides, including Frommer’s
Tuscany & Umbria and Frommer’s Northern Italy. He is Associate
Editor of Budget Travel magazine, the creator of the awardwinning
TravelTools.net, and a contributor of travel articles
to such publications as Newsweek, The Miami Herald, and the
Dallas Morning News. When not on the road, he splits his time
between New York and his native Philadelphia.
Author’s Acknowledgments
My editor, Christine Ryan, did an excellent job of pointing out
all the many, many places where what I originally wrote was confusing, out of place, or simply defied all laws of physics. Readers have her to thank for any coherence they might find within these pages. My parents first brought me to Europe (kicking and screaming) at the age of 11 to live in Rome, and proceeded to teach me all about vagabonding around the Continent over the next two years. These pages are, in large part, just me cribbing from those two masters at the art of travel. James Sayers and Matt Finley have both contributed greatly to this book over its various editions — I made them do all the difficult bits — and are both living proof that no one really lasts more than one season as a travel writer’s assistant. And finally, my gratitude to Boy Scout Troop 116, which — over the course of three weeks in the summer of 2000 — reminded me (a) of all those minor aspects of life on the road we travel writers take for granted yet would save first-timers hours of agony and confusion if only someone would have warned them first, and (b) that the promise to lead a group of teenage boys across Europe is a serious thing and should probably never be
agreed upon after one’s sixth pint of Guinness.
Introduction
Finally, you’re taking that long-awaited trip to Europe. Congratulations!
You’re about to embark on a great adventure, and part of you may
feel a bit overwhelmed. You have lots of plans to make: where to stay,
where to dine, how long to remain in each country, and which attractions
to see — but I can help you every step of the way. You already took the
first step in the right direction by buying Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition!
About This Book
You have in your possession a reference tool, not a guidebook that you
have to read from cover to cover. Open up this book to any chapter to
find the answers on how to make your European travel dreams come
true. You can read Europe For Dummies from start to finish if you want,
but if you’re already familiar with some aspects of international travel,
for instance, skip over the first two parts and jump right into the destination descriptions.
This is a selective guidebook to Europe. My goal throughout is to give
you a really good selection of each country’s highlights. That means I
exclude places that other, more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include.
Brussels, Copenhagen, and Lisbon are important cities, but from the
perspective of the first-time visitor to Europe, they can’t compete with
London, Paris, and Madrid. In addition, so much is really worth seeing in
Europe that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate, the
overrated, or the boring.
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any
time — and this is especially true of prices. I, therefore, suggest that
you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans.
The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the
experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.
Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite
targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Foolish Assumptions
As I wrote this book, I made some assumptions about you and what your
needs may be as a traveler. Here’s what I assumed about you:
You may be an inexperienced traveler looking for guidance when
determining whether to take a trip to Europe and how to plan for it.
You may be an experienced traveler, but you don’t have a lot of
time to devote to trip planning or you don’t have a lot of time to
spend in Europe once you get there. You want expert advice on
how to maximize your time and enjoy a hassle-free trip.
You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available
about Europe or that lists every hotel, restaurant, or attraction
available to you. Instead, you’re looking for a book that focuses on
the places that will give you the best or most memorable experience in Europe.
If you fit any of these criteria, then Europe For Dummies gives you the
information you’re looking for.
How This Book Is Organized
I divide Europe For Dummies into six parts. The first two parts cover
planning and travel skills. The next three parts divide Europe into three
regions; you get the lowdown on 15 of Europe’s most popular destinations,
and all destinations read as mini-guidebooks. You find all you need
to conquer each city: historical background, local customs, the best
hotels and restaurants for every budget, out-of-the-way gems, and more.
I even recommend how much time to spend at each major attraction.
The last part includes some fun top-ten lists as well as an appendix
packed with helpful travel info you can use on the go.
Part I: Introducing Europe
This part covers where to go, how to link it all together, and how to
budget for your dream trip. I give you my picks of the best destinations
and sights and my recommendations for the most fun-packed itineraries
to fit your interests and vacation schedule.
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe
If you’re looking for a deal (and isn’t everybody?), read on. This part
reveals the tricks of the trade for finding the best prices on plane tickets,
rail passes, and car rentals. I help you find the best hotel in any price
range and share budgeting tricks so you can travel Europe without breaking
the bank. I discuss tips for students, seniors, families, the physically
challenged, and gay and lesbian travelers. Then I guide you through
applying for passports; making reservations; dealing with trip insurance,
health issues, and Customs; and figuring out how to keep in touch while
traveling. I do everything but pack your bag!
Part III: The British Isles
First, I help you tackle London and side trips in England to Bath; Salisbury
and Stonehenge; and Oxford. Then I bring you north to Edinburgh and
other Scottish highlights such as Loch Ness, Inverness, and Glasgow.
Finally, I take you across the waters to Dublin and the best of Ireland’s
countryside, from the Wicklow Mountains to the Ring of Kerry.
Part IV: Central Europe
Many adventures await you in Central Europe. From the much-loved and
often-visited city of Paris, I take you to the palaces at Versailles and the
Gothic cathedral at Chartres. After cruising Amsterdam’s canals and redlight
district, I help you explore the Dutch tulip fields in Haarlem and the
Hoge Veluwe Park with its Kröller-Müller Museum. In Germany, I bring
you to Munich and Bavaria, where you can drink beer with oompah
bands and explore Neuschwanstein, the ultimate Romantic castle.
You raise a glass (of coffee) to the Hapsburgs in genteel Vienna before
heading to Innsbruck in the Austrian Alps. Finally, you head to the magical
baroque cityscape of Prague, which rarely disappoints (nor do the
Czech Republic’s cheap prices).
Part V: Mediterranean Europe
The bright Mediterranean basin has been home to Europe’s great
Empires. From the multilayered city of Rome, I show you the ancient
Roman town of Ostia Antica, just a daytrip away. Then you journey to
Florence, the city of the Renaissance, and the nearby Tuscan towns of
Pisa, Siena, and San Gimignano, which help bring the Middle Ages back
to life. I round up my Italian tour with the canal city of Venice, one of the
most beautiful and unusual cities on Earth.
Next I take you to Spain. You start in Madrid, which houses great museums
and tapas bars, and the nearby towns of Toledo and Segovia, which
provide medieval respites from city sightseeing. Then you visit the great
city of Barcelona, with its modernismo architecture and Gothic quarter.
Part VI: The Part of Tens
I fill this part with ten of Europe’s must-see sights (and ten overrated
ones) as well as ten affordable European souvenirs for $20 or less and
advice on ten ways to break out of the tourist mold.
In back of this book I’ve included an appendix — your Quick Concierge —
containing lots of handy information you may need when traveling in
Europe, like average rail times between different European cities, clothing
size conversions, and contact information for various tourism agencies.
You can find the Quick Concierge easily because it’s printed on yellow paper.
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Contents at a Glance
Introduction...................................................1
Part I: Introducing Europe .............................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Europe ............................9
Chapter 2: Deciding Where and When to Go ......................17
Chapter 3: Presenting Five Great Itineraries ........................31
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe ............43
Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ........................................45
Chapter 5: Getting to Europe ................................................64
Chapter 6: Getting Around Europe ........................................71
Chapter 7: Booking Your Accommodations ........................90
Chapter 8: Catering to Special Travel Needs
or Interests ............................103
Chapter 9: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ..............109
Part III: The British Isles ...........................125
Chapter 10: London and the Best of England ....................127
Chapter 11: Edinburgh and the Best of Scotland ..............164
Chapter 12: Dublin and the Best of Ireland ........................189
Part IV: Central Europe ..............................217
Chapter 13: Paris and Environs ..........................................219
Chapter 14: Amsterdam and Environs ................................256
Chapter 15: Munich and Bavaria ........................................284
Chapter 16: Vienna and the Best of Austria ......................307
Chapter 17: Bern and the Swiss Alps ..................................331
Chapter 18: Prague and Environs ........................................359
Part V: Mediterranean Europe ....................385
Chapter 19: Rome and Southern Italy ................................387
Chapter 20: Florence and the Tuscany Region ..................420
Chapter 21: Venice and Environs ........................................452
Chapter 22: Madrid and the Best of Castile ......................481
Chapter 23: The Best of Barcelona ......................................508
Chapter 24: Athens and the Greek Islands ........................529
Part VI: The Part of Tens ............................561
Chapter 25: The Ten Most Overrated Sights
and Attractions in Europe ..............................................563
Chapter 26: Ten Overlooked Gems ......................................566
Chapter 27: The Top Ten Gifts for $20 or Less ..................571
Chapter 28: Ten Ways to Break Out of
the Tourist Mold ..............................................................574
Appendix: Quick Concierge ........................578
Index ........................................................589
Maps at a Glance
Europe.................................................10
Europe’s Primary Train Routes ..............................74
England ....................................129
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions
in Central London .....................136
Scotland ................................166
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Edinburgh............170
Ireland ...........................191
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Dublin ..................196
County Kerry ............................212
France ..........................221
Paris Neighborhoods............................222
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Paris ....................230
Holland (The Netherlands).........................258
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions
in Central Amsterdam ...............264
Germany ..........................285
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Munich ................290
Austria...............................309
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Vienna ..................312
Switzerland .....................................333
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Bern......................335
The Bernese Oberland ...............348
The Czech Republic...................361
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Prague..................364
Side Trips from Prague .....................380
Italy ................................389
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Rome ....................394
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Florence ..............426
Tuscany......................443
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Venice ..................460
Spain ....................486
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Barcelona ............512
Greece .......................531
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Athens..................538
SantorÃni ...........554
Table of Contents
Introduction
About This Book
Conventions Used in This Book
Foolish Assumptions
How This Book Is Organized
Part I: Introducing Europe
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe
Part III: The British Isles
Part IV: Central Europe
Part V: Mediterranean Europe
Part VI: The Part of Tens
Icons Used in This Book
Where to Go from Here
Part I: Introducing Europe
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Europe
The Top Museums .........................................................12
The Top Historic Sights ................................................13
The Top Culinary Delights ...........................................14
The Architectural Highlights .......................................15
Chapter 2: Deciding Where and When to Go
Going Everywhere You Want to Be .............................17
The splendors of the British Isles .....................17
The heart of the Continent ................................18
The charms of the Mediterranean ....................19
The Secret of the Seasons ............................................21
Europe’s Calendar of Events ........................................23
Tips for Successful Trip Planning ...............................26
Seeing it all without going nuts .........................26
Staying sane on the museum trail .....................27
Dealing with cultural overload ..........................29
How to Schedule Your Time .........................................30
Chapter 3: Presenting Five Great Itineraries
The Everything-but-the-Kitchen-Sink-in-
Two-Weeks Tour ........................................................32
The Three-Week Grand Tour of Europe ......................34
Two Weeks in Europe for Lovers of Art ......................35
A Week of Romance, European Style ..........................37
A Week in Europe the Kids Will Love ..........................39
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe
Chapter 4: Managing Your Money
Planning Your Budget ...................................................46
(Not) Worrying About the Cost ...................................48
Keeping a Lid on Hidden Expenses .............................48
Cutting Costs — but Not the Fun ................................49
Planning ................................................................49
Transportation ....................................................50
Lodging .................................................................50
Dining ....................................................................51
Attractions/shopping .........................................52
Handling Money .............................................................53
Using your ATM card ..........................................53
Pulling out the plastic .........................................54
Cashing traveler’s checks ..................................55
Exchanging Money at the Best Rate ...........................56
Buying Currency before You Leave .............................57
Paying and Redeeming the VAT ...................................58
Avoiding Theft ...............................................................58
Hazard #1: The pickpocket ................................59
Hazard #2: The scam artist ................................60
Keeping Valuables Safe on Trains ...............................61
Coping with a Stolen Wallet .........................................62
Chapter 5: Getting to Europe
Seeking a Travel Agent’s Advice ..................................64
Exploring Package-Tour Possibilities .........................65
Comparing packages ..........................................65
Hunting down the deals .....................................66
Joining an Escorted Tour .............................................67
Making Your Own Arrangements ................................68
Booking your flight .............................................68
Shopping for the best airfare .............................68
Booking your flight online ..................................69
Chapter 6: Getting Around Europe
Flying Around Europe ...................................................71
Taking the Train .............................................................73
Figuring out the basics of train travel ..............73
Saving time and money with rail passes ..........78
Navigating the train station ...............................82
Floating to Your Destination by Ferry ........................84
Getting Around by Bus .................................................84
Driving in Europe ..........................................................85
Obtaining an International Driver’s Permit .....85
Knowing when to rent a car ...............................85
Saving time and money on rental cars .............86
Understanding European road rules ................89
Chapter 7: Booking Your Accommodations
Understanding European Hotels .................................90
The bathroom: The big culture shock ..............91
The shower: Another new adventure ...............92
That extra thing: Not a toilet .............................92
Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate .....................92
Comparing room rates and ratings ...................92
Making reservations ...........................................94
Using a hotel booking service ...........................95
Surfing the Web for hotel deals .........................96
Finding deals at the last minute ........................97
Discovering Other Options ..........................................99
The most popular alternatives ..........................99
Hostels and other bargain options .................100
Chapter 8: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests
Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ........103
Making Age Work for You: Advice for Seniors .........104
Accessing Europe: Advice for Travelers
with Disabilities .......................................................106
Following the Rainbow: Advice for Gay and
Lesbian Travelers ....................................................107
Chapter 9: Taking Care of the Remaining Details
Getting a Passport .......................................................109
Applying for a U.S. passport ............................110
Applying for other passports ..........................110
Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical
Insurance ..................................................................111
Staying Healthy When You Travel .............................113
Dealing with European Health Care ..........................114
Making Reservations for Popular Restaurants,
Events, and Sights ...................................................115
Packing It Up ................................................................116
Dressing like the locals .....................................116
Sporting money belts .......................................117
Traveling without electronics .........................117
Mastering Communication .........................................117
Calling Europe from the United States ...........118
Calling home from Europe ...............................118
Using European pay phones ............................119
Staying connected by cellphone .....................119
Accessing the Internet in Europe ....................120
Keeping Up with Airline Security Measures ............122
Bringing Your Goodies Back Home ...........................124
Part III: The British Isles
Chapter 10: London and the Best of England
Getting There ...............................................................127
Arriving by air ...................................................128
Arriving by rail ..................................................128
Orienting Yourself in London .....................................128
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................129
Finding information after you arrive ..............131
Getting Around London ..............................................131
By Tube (subway) .............................................132
By bus .................................................................132
By taxi .................................................................133
By foot ................................................................133
Staying in London ........................................................133
London’s top hotels and B&Bs ........................134
London’s runner-up accommodations ...........139
Dining in London .........................................................140
London’s top restaurants .................................141
London’s runner-up restaurants .....................143
Exploring London ........................................................145
London’s top sights ..........................................145
More cool things to see and do .......................150
Guided tours ......................................................153
Suggested itineraries ........................................153
Traveling Beyond London ..........................................155
Bath: Ancient Rome in Georgian clothing ......155
Salisbury and Stonehenge: A mix
of the Gothic and prehistoric ......................157
Oxford: The original college town ..................159
Fast Facts: London ......................................................161
Chapter 11: Edinburgh and the Best of Scotland
Getting There ...............................................................165
Arriving by air ...................................................165
Arriving by train or bus ....................................165
Orienting Yourself in Edinburgh ................................165
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................165
Finding information after you arrive ..............167
Getting Around Edinburgh .........................................167
By bus .................................................................167
By taxi .................................................................167
By foot ................................................................167
Staying in Edinburgh ...................................................167
Edinburgh’s top hotels and B&Bs ...................168
Edinburgh’s runner-up accommodations ......172
Dining in Edinburgh ....................................................172
Edinburgh’s Top Restaurants ....................................173
Edinburgh’s runner-up restaurants ................175
Exploring Edinburgh ...................................................175
Edinburgh’s top sights .....................................175
More cool things to see and do .......................178
Guided tours ......................................................180
Suggested itineraries ........................................180
Traveling Beyond Edinburgh .....................................181
On Nessie’s trail: Inverness and Loch Ness ....181
Glasgow: A Victorian industrial city
discovers culture ..........................................184
Fast Facts: Edinburgh .................................................186
Chapter 12: Dublin and the Best of Ireland
Getting There ...............................................................190
Arriving by air ...................................................190
Arriving by land .................................................190
Orienting Yourself in Dublin ......................................190
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................190
Finding information after you arrive ..............192
Getting Around Dublin ................................................192
By bus .................................................................192
By DART (light rail) ...........................................193
By taxi .................................................................193
By foot ................................................................193
Staying in Dublin .........................................................194
Dublin’s top hotels ............................................194
Dublin’s runner-up accommodations .............198
Dining in Dublin ...........................................................198
Dublin’s top restaurants ...................................200
Dublin’s runner-up restaurants .......................201
Exploring Dublin ..........................................................202
Dublin’s top sights ............................................202
More cool things to see and do .......................206
xviii Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Guided tours ......................................................208
Suggested itineraries ........................................208
Traveling the Irish Countryside ................................209
North of Dublin to passage tombs and
ruined medieval abbeys ...............................209
South of Dublin: Mansions and monasteries
in County Wicklow ........................................210
Fast Facts: Dublin ........................................................213
Partt IV: Central Europe
Chapter 13: Paris and Environs
Getting There ...............................................................220
Arriving by air ...................................................220
Arriving by rail ..................................................220
Orienting Yourself in Paris .........................................221
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................224
Finding information after you arrive ..............225
Getting Around Paris ..................................................225
By Métro (subway) and RER ............................226
By bus .................................................................226
By taxi .................................................................227
By foot ................................................................227
Staying in Paris ............................................................227
Paris’s top hotels ..............................................228
Paris’s runner-up accommodations ................233
Dining in Paris ..............................................................234
Paris’s top restaurants .....................................235
Paris’s runner-up restaurants ..........................238
Exploring Paris ............................................................239
Paris’s top sights ...............................................239
More cool things to see and do .......................244
Guided tours ......................................................248
Suggested itineraries ........................................248
Traveling Beyond Paris ..............................................249
Versailles: Palace of the Sun King ...................250
Chartres Cathedral: A Gothic masterpiece ....251
Fast Facts: Paris ...........................................................253
Chapter 14: Amsterdam and Environs
Getting There ...............................................................257
Arriving by air ...................................................257
Arriving by rail ..................................................258
Orienting Yourself in Amsterdam ..............................259
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................259
Finding information after you arrive ..............260
Getting Around Amsterdam .......................................260
By bus .................................................................260
By taxi .................................................................261
By tram ...............................................................262
By foot ................................................................262
By bike ................................................................262
Staying in Amsterdam .................................................262
Amsterdam’s top hotels and B&Bs .................263
Amsterdam’s runner-up accommodations ....266
Dining in Amsterdam ..................................................267
Amsterdam’s top restaurants ..........................268
Amsterdam’s runner-up restaurants ..............269
Exploring Amsterdam .................................................270
Amsterdam’s top sights ...................................270
More cool things to see and do .......................274
Guided tours ......................................................276
Suggested itineraries ........................................276
Traveling Beyond Amsterdam ...................................277
Discovering the other Haarlem .......................277
Stopping to admire the tulips ..........................278
Tilting at windmills ...........................................279
Biking to the Kröller-Müller Museum .............280
Fast Facts: Amsterdam ...............................................281
Chapter 15: Munich and Bavaria
Getting There ...............................................................284
Arriving by air ...................................................284
Arriving by train ................................................285
Orienting Yourself in Munich .....................................286
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................286
Finding information after you arrive ..............286
Getting Around Munich ....................................286
Staying in Munich ........................................................288
Munich’s top hotels ..........................................288
Munich’s runner-up accommodations ...........292
Dining in Munich .........................................................292
Munich’s top restaurants .................................293
Munich’s runner-up restaurants .....................294
Exploring Munich ........................................................295
Munich’s top sights ...........................................296
More cool things to see and do .......................299
Guided tours ......................................................300
Suggested itineraries ........................................300
Traveling Beyond Munich ..........................................301
Neuschwanstein: Mad King Ludwig’s
fairy-tale castle ..............................................301
The Nazi concentration camp at Dachau .......304
Fast Facts: Munich ......................................................305
Chapter 16: Vienna and the Best of Austria
Getting There ...............................................................307
Arriving by air ...................................................308
Arriving by rail ..................................................308
Orienting Yourself in Vienna ......................................308
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................308
Finding information after you arrive ..............309
Getting Around Vienna ...............................................310
By U-Bahn (subway) .........................................310
By tram or bus ...................................................310
By taxi .................................................................310
Staying in Vienna .........................................................311
Vienna’s top hotels ...........................................311
Vienna’s runner-up accommodations ............315
Dining in Vienna ..........................................................316
Vienna’s top restaurants ..................................317
Vienna’s runner-up restaurants ......................319
Exploring Vienna .........................................................319
Vienna’s top sights ............................................320
More cool things to see and do .......................322
Guided tours ......................................................324
Suggested itineraries ........................................325
Traveling Beyond Vienna: Innsbruck ........................326
Getting there ......................................................326
Seeing the sights ...............................................327
Where to stay and dine ....................................328
Fast Facts: Vienna ........................................................328
Chapter 17: Bern and the Swiss Alps
Getting There ...............................................................331
Arriving by air ...................................................331
Arriving by rail ..................................................332
Orienting Yourself in Bern ..........................................332
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................332
Finding information after you arrive ..............332
Getting Around Bern ...................................................332
By tram and bus ................................................334
By taxi .................................................................334
By foot ................................................................334
Staying in Bern .............................................................334
Bern’s top hotels ...............................................334
Bern’s runner-up accommodations ................336
Dining in Bern ..............................................................337
Bern’s top restaurants ......................................338
Bern’s runner-up restaurants ..........................339
Exploring Bern .............................................................340
Bern’s top sights ...............................................340
More cool things to see and do .......................341
Guided tours ......................................................343
Suggested itineraries ........................................343
Traveling Beyond Bern ...............................................344
Zurich: Swiss counterculture meets
high finance ....................................................344
Basel: Three, three, three countries in one! ....346
Visiting the Bernese Oberland ...................................347
Getting there ......................................................348
Finding information ..........................................349
Learning the lay of the land .............................349
Getting around the Bernese Oberland ...........350
Staying in the Bernese Oberland ....................350
Dining in the Bernese Oberland ......................351
Exploring the Bernese Oberland .....................353
Fast Facts: Bern ...........................................................356
Chapter 18: Prague and Environs
Arriving by air ...................................................360
Arriving by rail ..................................................360
Orienting Yourself in Prague ......................................360
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................361
Finding information after you arrive ..............362
Getting Around Prague ...............................................362
By Metro (subway) ...........................................362
By tram and bus ................................................362
By taxi .................................................................363
Staying in Prague .........................................................363
Prague’s top hotels ...........................................366
Prague’s runner-up accommodations ............367
Dining in Prague ..........................................................368
Prague’s top restaurants ..................................369
Prague’s runner-up restaurants ......................370
Exploring Prague .........................................................371
Prague’s top sights ............................................371
More cool things to see and do .......................376
Guided tours ......................................................377
Suggested itineraries ........................................378
Traveling Beyond Prague ...........................................379
Medieval Karlstejn Castle ................................379
The Nazi camp at TerezÃn ................................381
Fast Facts: Prague .......................................................382
Part V: Mediterranean Europe ...................385
Chapter 19: Rome and Southern Italy
Getting There ...............................................................388
Arriving by air ...................................................388
Arriving by rail ..................................................388
Orienting Yourself in Rome ........................................388
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................389
Finding information after you arrive ..............391
Getting Around Rome .................................................391
By subway ..........................................................391
By bus .................................................................391
By taxi .................................................................392
By foot ................................................................392
Staying in Rome ...........................................................392
Rome’s top hotels .............................................392
Rome’s runner-up accommodations ..............396
Dining in Rome ............................................................397
Rome’s top restaurants ....................................399
Rome’s runner-up restaurants ........................401
Exploring Rome ...........................................................402
Rome’s top attractions .....................................403
More cool things to see and do .......................410
Guided tours ......................................................413
Suggested itineraries ........................................413
Traveling Beyond Rome .............................................414
Tivoli: The villas of Roman emperors,
princes, and popes ........................................414
Ostia Antica: Not quite Pompeii, but
much closer ...................................................415
Fast Facts: Rome ..........................................................416
Chapter 20: Florence and the Tuscany Region
Getting There ...............................................................421
Arriving by air ...................................................421
Arriving by rail ..................................................421
Orienting Yourself in Florence ...................................421
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................422
Finding information after you arrive ..............423
Getting Around Florence ............................................423
By bus .................................................................423
By taxi .................................................................423
By foot ................................................................424
Staying in Florence ......................................................424
Florence’s top hotels ........................................425
Florence’s runner-up accommodations .........428
Dining in Florence .......................................................429
Florence’s top restaurants ...............................430
Florence’s runner-up restaurants ...................432
Exploring Florence ......................................................433
Florence’s top attractions ................................433
More cool things to see and do .......................439
Guided tours ......................................................440
Suggested itineraries ........................................440
Traveling Beyond Florence ........................................442
Pisa: The Leaning Tower and more ................442
Siena: A departure from the Renaissance ......445
San Gimignano: Hills and towers ....................448
Fast Facts: Florence ....................................................449
Chapter 21: Venice and Environs
Getting There ...............................................................452
Arriving by air ...................................................453
Arriving by boat ................................................453
Arriving by rail ..................................................454
Orienting Yourself in Venice ......................................454
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................454
Finding information after you arrive ..............455
Getting Around Venice ................................................456
By foot ................................................................456
By vaporetto (water bus) .................................456
By traghetto (ferry skiff) ..................................457
By taxi .................................................................457
By gondola .........................................................457
Staying in Venice .........................................................458
Venice’s top hotels ............................................458
Venice’s runner-up accommodations .............462
Dining in Venice ...........................................................463
Venice’s top restaurants ...................................464
Venice’s runner-up restaurants .......................466
Exploring Venice ..........................................................467
Venice’s top attractions ...................................468
More cool things to see and do .......................472
Guided tours ......................................................473
Suggested itineraries ........................................474
Traveling Beyond Venice ............................................475
The Venetian lagoon: Island hopping
and shopping .................................................475
Padova: Outstanding art and architecture ....477
Fast Facts: Venice ........................................................478
Chapter 22: Madrid and the Best of Castile
Getting There ...............................................................481
Arriving by air ...................................................482
Arriving by rail ..................................................482
Orienting Yourself in Madrid .....................................482
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................482
Finding information after you arrive ..............484
Getting Around Madrid ...............................................484
By Metro (subway) ...........................................484
By bus .................................................................484
By taxi .................................................................484
By foot ................................................................485
Staying in Madrid ........................................................485
Madrid’s top hotels ...........................................485
Madrid’s runner-up accommodations ............489
Dining in Madrid ..........................................................490
Madrid’s top restaurants .................................491
Madrid’s runner-up restaurants ......................493
Exploring Madrid .........................................................494
Madrid’s top sights ...........................................494
More cool things to see and do .......................497
Guided tours ......................................................499
Suggested itineraries ........................................499
Traveling Beyond Madrid ...........................................500
Holy Toledo! Religious art and
architecture ...................................................500
El Escorial: A king-sized monastery ................503
Segovia: A tour through history ......................504
Fast Facts: Madrid .......................................................505
Chapter 23: The Best of Barcelona
Getting There ...............................................................509
Arriving by air ...................................................509
Arriving by train ................................................509
Orienting Yourself in Barcelona ................................509
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................509
Finding information after you arrive ..............510
Getting Around Barcelona ..........................................510
By public transportation ..................................511
By taxi .................................................................511
By funicular ........................................................511
By foot ................................................................511
Staying in Barcelona ...................................................511
Barcelona’s top hotels and B&Bs ....................514
Barcelona’s runner-up accommodations .......516
Dining in Barcelona .....................................................517
Barcelona’s top restaurants .............................517
Barcelona’s runner-up restaurants .................518
Exploring Barcelona ....................................................519
Barcelona’s top sights ......................................520
More cool things to see and do .......................523
Guided tours ......................................................524
Suggested itineraries ........................................524
Fast Facts: Barcelona ..................................................526
Chapter 24: Athens and the Greek Islands
Getting There ...............................................................530
Arriving by air ...................................................530
Arriving by ferry ................................................532
Arriving by rail ..................................................532
Arriving by bus ..................................................533
Orienting Yourself in Athens ......................................533
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................533
Finding information after you arrive ..............534
Getting Around Athens ...............................................534
By Metro (Subway) ...........................................534
By bus and trolley .............................................534
By taxi .................................................................535
By foot ................................................................535
Staying in Athens .........................................................536
Athens’s top hotels ...........................................536
Athens’s runner-up accommodations ............540
Dining in Athens ..........................................................541
Athens’s top restaurants ..................................542
Athens’s runner-up restaurants ......................544
Exploring Athens .........................................................544
Athens’s top sights ...........................................545
More cool things to see and do .......................548
Guided tours ......................................................549
Following an itinerary ......................................550
Traveling Beyond Athens ...........................................551
Delphi: The center of the ancient world ........551
SantorÃni: Sun, sun, and more sun ..................553
Fast Facts: Athens .......................................................557
Part VI: The Part of Tens
Chapter 25: The Ten Most Overrated Sights and Attractions in Europe
London’s Changing of the Guard
at Buckingham Palace .............................................563
London’s Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum ............564
Paris’s Champs-Elysées and Rome’s Via Veneto .....564
The French Riviera ......................................................564
Madrid’s Flamenco Shows ..........................................564
Athens, Greece .............................................................564
Four Shopping Disappointments: the “Big Names”
in London, Paris, Rome, and Florence ..................565
Chapter 26: Ten Overlooked Gems
Avebury, England ........................................................566
Dingle Peninsula, Ireland ............................................566
Paris’s Lesser-Known Museums ................................567
Hoge Veluwe Park, Netherlands ................................567
The Heuriger of Grinzig, Austria ...............................567
Ostia Antica, Italy ........................................................568
Venetian Islands, Italy .................................................568
Arena Chapel, Padova, Italy .......................................569
Spain — All of It ...........................................................569
Medieval Hamlets and Hill Towns .............................569
Chapter 27: The Top Ten Gifts for $20 or Less
A Bottle of Wine ...........................................................571
Marbleized Paper from Florence ...............................571
Tulip Bulbs from Holland ...........................................572
Soviet-Era Kitschy Trinkets ........................................572
A Small Wheel of Cheese from France or Italy .........572
A Leather Wallet from Florence’s San Lorenzo
Street Market ............................................................572
A Glass Trinket from a Venetian Shop ......................572
Religious Objects from Shops around
the Vatican ................................................................573
A Tartan Scarf from Scotland .....................................573
A Swiss Army Knife from — You Guessed It —
Switzerland ...............................................................573
Chapter 28: Ten Ways to Break Out of the Tourist Mold
Do as the Locals Do ....................................................574
Take a Dip in Bern’s Aare River .................................575
Rent an Apartment or Villa ........................................575
Visit a Small Private Museum ....................................575
Jog with the Locals .....................................................576
Hike in the Countryside ..............................................576
Catch a Soccer Match .................................................576
Pick Grapes or Olives .................................................576
Watch Some Local Television Programs ..................577
Liberate Yourself from Your Guidebook ...................577
Appendix: Quick Concierge
Average Travel Times by Rail ....................................578
Metric Conversions .....................................................579
Clothing Size Conversions .........................................580
Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ..............................583
Where to Get More Information ................................585
Index .......................................................589
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